Because
the superb quality of the confrontation
models I just had to remove a few
mold lines .The head had non of those
so I could get started with converting
right away.
F
r o n t T e e t h - Separated
them by cutting them apart even
further and sharpened them a little
with sandpaper (grit 800-1200)
and a hobby knife (scrape rather
than cut, the metal that is used
to make these models is relatively
soft and if you cut you can easily
end up with a headless figure,
so: scrape when you are using a
knife!!)
2
T u s k s - I bended them
back a little, so they would point
out more, as 2 big tusks, keeping
attackers at bay rather than curling
inward. After that I sharpened
the ends with a bit of sandpaper
(400-800-1200 grit)
G
o a t e e - (I did his goatee
after I glued his head onto his
torso to make sure it was hanging
in the right direction!!) Clipped
his old one, and drilled a little
hole instead off that one. I glued
a piece of brass wire into that
for support. This should hold the
greenstufff better and keeps it
from falling of while sculpting.
This works best when you cut a
few times into the wire making
tiny hooks which prevents the greenstufff
from sliding off the wire.
Note:
While drying and sculpting keep the
end pose of the figure and the direction
of the wind/motion of the figure
in mind (make sure that all the pieces
of fur, hair and clothing are waving
in the same/right direction!!)
E
a r s - Separated them,
so they stand out a bit better,
just cut a few times between them
to widen the gap and when they
were separated I sanded them a
little (grit 800-1200) and sharpened
them with the good old hobby knife
and sandpaper (grit 1200). After
the head was glued on top of the
torso, and the extra horns (this
will come next) I noticed that
the ears were mere flat bits hanging
behind the extra horns. You couldn't
see into his ears anymore. So I
added a small strip of greenstufff
along the upper edge of each ear.
2
E x t r a H o r n s - I
wanted to place 2 extra horns just
behind the eye sockets of the skull
(see pic 5 (GW Skaven vermin lord©)
for reference and 6 (Chris Achilleos©)
for general look and idea). I used
a file to flatten the surface behind
the sockets to get a flat starting
point for my hand drill. I made
2 small dents with a steel pin
to give the drill more grip. After
the holes were drilled...... @!*&%@@#>:?
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAghhrrr, it happened.
You will learn that one way or
the other, something goes wrong
during converting. I drilled 1
of the 2 holes just to deep and
came out with the drill in the
middle of his face, not 2 worry
though (hang on I will explain
later how I handled that), I glued
2 short pieces of steel wire into
the holes. I didn't use brass here,
because that tends to bend too
fast, steel is harder to clip,
but will hold its form. Then I
made 2 horns using greenstufff.
I made 2 round pieces and then,
while holding either end between
thumb and index finger, twisted
one end while holding the other
in place. I rolled the piece between
the index finger and thumb of my
right hand and simultaneous pulled
it away from my left hand till
it broke. The result, a long and
thin strand of greenstuff that
starts relatively thick and becomes
thinner and thinner to the end
and looks like a twisted piece
of horn, ahhh isn't it easy or
what (this is a very easy way to
make great horns. If I have some
greenstufff that I don't use, I
don't make little balls out of
them, I make those horns, let them
dry and throw them into the good
old bits box!!). After letting
both horns to dry and cutting them
to size, I drilled a little hole
in the thicker end of them and
glued them onto the steel pieces
of wire. When that was dry I used
a little bit of green stuff to
make the transition between skull
and horn. After that I cut away
the access metal from my drill
failure, and filled that with greenstufff
and remodeled that part of his
face! You see don't go ballistic
when something goes wrong, just
make sure you've got enough greenstufff. |